Thursday, November 6, 2014

Indian creek


I spent one night at a nice campground in Green River, Utah before heading to Moab to start the climbing workshop I had on for the weekend. Another girl that was participating in the workshop picked me up on her way through from Salt Lake City and we got to town on time to meet up with the whole crew at a local cafe, the Peace Tree. There were 9 of us participating and 5 climbers to help instruct us. The course was to be held at Indian Creek - probably the most renowned crack climbing destination in the world - which was about a hour or so south of Moab. And running the course was none other than Steph Davis. She is not only my favourite, but one of the most well known climbers around, particularly famous for her free ascent of El Cap, free solos on the Diamond (2000ft sheer steep/overhung mountain, in alpine, with no rope!) and her combination of climbing up towers in the Moab region and then BASE jumping off the top of them! So it was a real honour for us all to get a place in one of these little clinics that she runs twice a year. 

After getting the low down at lunch, we collected the rest of our supplies and headed in convoy south, to our home base for the next few days - Stephs 22acre hobby property, not far from Indian creek itself. It was a stunning place to have. A big expanse of just scrub, sand and juniper trees. Not far off the highway, but free in sight and sound of anything but nature :) (and the coyotes you could hear at night!)

We got there just at sundown


On this property, Steph has built a little octagonal cabin that she uses when she stays there. It is surprisingly functional for such a small place - kitchenette, bed, lounge chairs chairs, fireplace, kitchen table and all. It's as if each side of the octagon is a different room! And look closely - there's a toilet outside, and to of view a bath aswell!




Stephs dog Cajun. We'll see a lot of her!


After dinner and a nice group chat-intro session for the night, we retired to our tents/cars and there I opened up my goodie bag that Steph had gifted us all. It was mainly things put together from all of her sponsors... Which happen to be all of my favourite brands :)

(Climbing shoes specifically for this kind of climbing, sports tape, headband, hat, tshirt, stuff sack, box of protein bars, stickers, chalk, chalk bag, hand balm, pain relief oil, gear sling and a carabiner.)


And the next morning we set off to Indian creek! (Not our van)




First we went over how to tape our hands (crack climbing literally involves shoving your hands and toes into a crack. So it's good to tape to avoid to much loss of skin!)


Then after the pro's had set up some ropes, we got to work trying out the new refined techniques we'd just learnt




The dogs were enjoying their day out.










The view was just too good! But it was also a great day of climbing. I somehow got to the top of every climb I tried, but not without a good bit of grunt - it was really tricky stuff!





And back again by sunset. 




That evening we were spoiled with a delicious dinner (one of the climbers was designated camp cook - we'd already had breakfast and lunch supplied as well as lots of homemade cookies and cakes) followed by a bonfire with a few locals banging out some tunes on the guitars. (Some of the climbers are actually in a band together, so they were pretty well oiled!)




Gorgeous sunrise :)







And back to the creek for more climbing on day two. Yesterday was stinking hot, but today was almost a storm! Luckily we had pre heeded advice, and had packed for all weather conditions. 



Blue skies looking one way...


Grey looking the other!






Aswell as the helper climbers, we had a special photographer joining us for some high definition photos on the rock! Those are his dogs above. 


When Steph finally climbed herself to put a rope up, it was pretty impressive. We had just watched a few other good climbers try this route and fail - it was pretty tricky. Yet even after not having done it for 6 years, Steph just cruised up!






As did Mary up Supercrack!







And we also had some little 2-on-1 lessons to refine our multipitch anchor skills and efficiency. 



I did an epic job on the hands today. Skin hacked off both wrists and most fingers - and a good chunk out of the hand that tore through the tape glove! Officially hardcore!!



And then Chris followed up this awesome climb at the end of the day